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  • Creating an Effective Promo Packet and Website

    Your publicity materials are the most important tools you have, besides your music, for getting gigs. Interestingly, though, if your promo materials fall short, gig promoters are likely to ignore the quality of your music. Many musicians say, “My music speaks for itself,” but in the real world, it might not. Just as people develop most of their impression of others in the first five seconds of meeting them (and that impression is hard to break if it’s not good), your publicity materials are your “first five seconds” for those whose introduction to you is not in person.

    Although you can get some gigs by doing open mics, sessions, and auditions, those are not usually effective career-makers. As you read in my two previous posts on career development and maintenance, actively pursuing gigs by the cold-calling-and-packet-sending method is what produces real results.

    Assuming that your music really is all it should be, let’s look at the elements of good promotion: a bio packet, a website, a CD, and business cards.

    The Bio Packet contains:

    1. Folder: an attractive two-pocket 8.5×11” folder with a label on the front (name, website, e-mail address, and maybe an eye-catching graphic or photo)
    2. Cover Page: an attractive, attention-catching page with your photo, a catch-phrase (i.e. “Fabulous Fiddle” or “Harp Music for All Seasons” or “The Guitar that Ate Chicago”, or whatever; just be sure it’s original); a short description of what you do, and a repeat of the info that’s on your business card (see below)
    3. Business card: should be tucked into the slots on the pocket of the folder; it should have a picture or logo that makes it obvious what you do, and contain your e-mail address and phone number, and a postal address if you have a post office box (If your postal address is also your home address, you might or might not wish to have just anyone knowing where you live.)
    4. Resume Page: a list of all the places you’ve played, most impressive ones first.
    5. Bio Page: your musical life story in one concise paragraph, written in the third person, most impressive accomplishments first
    6. Discography Page: A list of your recordings, perhaps with the CD covers pictured
    7. Glossy Photo: A professional color photo of you and your instrument, in 8.5 x 11” format
    8. CD: an unopened full-length CD of your music (See below for more detail.)

    The pages that you want people to see first (cover page and resume) should go on top. The CD should be on top of those (some people won’t read anything until they’ve heard the first track of the CD).

    The Website is an “online bio packet”, enhanced thusly:

    1. Colorful Home Page: Your name and catchphrase, your photo (same as the glossy in your bio packet), a description of what you do, your contact info, and links to the rest of the pages. Use attractive background colors, and an easily readable font with text large enough to read easily (12 point is too small and usually looks unprofessional).

    2. Bio/resume page: same as in your bio  packet

    3. Discography: photos of your CD covers, and sound bytes of the best tunes on each CD.

    4. Video: If you have live videos from successful performances, those are best. If not, at least do a good quality studio video of a few of your best tunes (rather than a living-room thing).

    5. Contact Page: this should have a direct link to your e-mail, and a phone number.

     

    Your CD should be full-length, rather than just a demo. In the days before independent recordings were commonplace, 4-tune demos were acceptable. Now any musician can have a CD, and a demo only indicates you haven’t bothered to make a full length album. Besides, doing concerts without a saleable recording isn’t a good idea, first because concerts don’t pay enough and you’ll need the income from CD sales, and secondly because if you play well, people will want to buy CD’s and will be very disappointed if you don’t have any. A full-length CD contains 45 to 50 minutes of music. A promoter might only listen to a few of the tracks, but they shouldn’t be limited to only a few should they want to hear more. There are a few more comments on CDs in my blog post from 2 weeks ago.

    For info on what to do with your promo materials, see my previous posts on developing and maintaining a professional career.

  • The Right Stuff – Part 2

    This is a continuation of last week’s subject on starting and maintaining a professional music career…

    9. Do the considerable office work.

    Although making promo materials and doing your own booking are a kind of “office work”, they’re not all there is. It’s essential to know that there is no way around doing the office work; no shortcut. A music career is self-employment, and one must be a good businessperson to keep it viable. Plan to spend several hours a week in your office.

    • Keep good records of everything  –  contact info for gig venues, your performance schedule, info on past gigs and the dates of them, your instrument insurance, repertoire lists, financial records, and everything else pertaining to your career.
    • Writing thank-you notes is a must. If you don’t send them, you might not get invited back to the venue, the house you stayed at, or whatever you need to thank people for. An e-mail isn’t enough; a real note on a real note card in a real envelope is the civilized way to do it.
    • Your phone will get a lot of use as you do your booking calls and work out logistics with organizers. Big phone bills should be in your budget plans.
    • Speaking of budgets, it’s a good idea to develop one. Estimate expenses and income, then keep track of the actual figures, and adjust accordingly.
    • Keep good financial records. The IRS will ask for every detail of your business income and expenses, and many of your expenses will be tax deductible (consult with a CPA on this). Income vs. expenses are your gauge of viability. I once knew a businessman who used cash a lot to avoid paying taxes, and didn’t keep track. Because of this he had no idea where his business stood financially, and eventually the business failed as a result. Keep your records accurate so you know where you stand and how to plan. If you have no idea how to do this, take some adult-education business courses.

    I used to wish the desk work would go away until I realized that if it did, it would mean I had no gigs coming up. A busy office means a busy career. If you love your music enough to make it your career, you’ll welcome the office work.

    10.  Dress well and look your best.

    It’s amazing how many musicians ignore this one. Folk and traditional musicians in particular tend to say, “It’s my music that counts, not how I look.” But there is a simple psychological fact at play: people develop their main impression of you within the first five seconds of seeing you, and they wee you before they hear your music. That first impression can be hard to overcome if it’s negative. So why not make it positive?

    11. Smile a lot and treat everyone with kindness and respect. ‘Nuff said.

    12. Have a lot of patience when gigs don’t go as planned.

    A perfect gig is rare. Usually you end up dealing with bad sound systems, bad weather, grumbly people, broken strings, or a million other annoyances which, if you consider them annoyances, will really get to you. In reality they just come with the territory. Keeping your good humor about it makes life easier, and then when there is a truly perfect gig, it’s a happy surprise.

    A band I know had a showcase at a music convention, but only one person showed up to hear them. They played the set as though they had a full house. Afterward, he introduced himself; he was an agent and he booked them on the spot for a well-paid tour in Japan.

    13. Don’t give yourself any alternatives to fall back on (such as day jobs).

    It’s true what they say: if you have a goal and you also give yourself alternatives in case it doesn’t work out, all you’ll ever achieve is the alternatives. If you aim to do music full-time, working up to it has to culminate somewhere. If you just leave it to fate and figure you’ll know when the time is right, you might never realize that the time is right when you decide it is.

    14. Plan Your Travel Logistics.

    If you decide to go on tour, do the math first to decide on your best modes of travel and lodging. Your options are air, rail or road travel, and your lodging options are hotels/motels, billeting (staying at peoples’ homes), or (if you have pets or multiple or large instruments, or sleep best in your own bed) you may want to travel in a motorhome. Compare the costs of each.

    You can live in a motorhome year round if you set up your tours to follow weather patterns. No kidding. If you don’t need to go home to someplace between gigs or trips, you can actually live comfortably in a motor home, even a small one, spending your winters in the southern tropical or desert climates (I know from experience that living in a motorhome in the winter is no fun), and your summers in temperate states. There is a whole set of skills you’ll learn very quickly for motorhome living and driving, and for some of us it’s worth it. Just know how many miles per gallon your vehicle gets!

    Air travel, motels or billeting can be viable if you need to go home between gigs or groups of gigs. Be sure to check out airline regulations for your instruments, and be aware that these change often with the whims of the FAA and the moods of airline personnel.

    I’ve done all of the above, and each has its good points and bad. The negatives of motorhome travel were that I spent long hours driving, and since I was not relying on being hosted in private homes I didn’t get to know people as well. On the other hand, there were some private homes that were, uh, challenging to stay in. Such as the one where the carpet in my bedroom consisted of two inches of matted-down dog fur  –  literally. And it wasn’t an art project. Most homes, however, were quite delightful and the hosts very gracious.

    The down-sides of air travel are well known, including the occasional smashed instrument.

    15. Take Only the Gigs Where You feel Welcome

    If you talk to an organizer who is less than enthused (“Well, I dunno, no one knows who you are…”), just cross them off your list. It’s not worth it to try to prove yourself to someone. You need your concert promoters to believe in you wholeheartedly; if your promo materials have not convinced them, nothing will. A promoter’s enthusiasm translates into good promotion, which brings a good audience. Nay-sayers just create failures.

    16. Give the promoter enough information to do good publicity.

    You don’t need to have a big reputation as long as the people in charge are willing to do good publicity. Yes, at good venues the concert organizer should do the publicity, using your promo materials and perhaps adding opinion or revue-based touches.

    It’s a publicist’s job to promote you in an enticing way (not just list your name on their schedule). I think one of the best publicity articles I ever saw was early in my career when the Tucson newspaper announced my upcoming concert with this headline: “Womanworks Gallery Pulls a Coup: Laurie Riley Coming to Tucson”. I was a complete unkown at the time, and it made me wonder if there was something I didn’t know about myself! Now THAT’S publicity. The concert had standing room only.

    The other side of the coin is that just about anyone can verbally exaggerate their accomplishments and draw a crowd, but if you can’t back up your promises, word gets around. I did my utmost to make sure I could back up any promise made about my skills.

    ***

    If anyone ever says a music career is glamorous, they’re lying. Expect many years of really hard work, and many long hours of practice and travel. If you love sharing your music, it’s worth it.

  • The Right Stuff: Creating and Maintaining a Professional Career

    Last week I wrote about musical success, which isn’t necessarily the same as having a career in music. This week, I’d like to offer some thoughts on developing and maintaining a professional performance career.

    As we all know, there are basically three kinds of careers for acoustic/folk/traditional musicians; some do only one of the following, and many do a little of each:

    • Playing locally for restaurants, clubs, weddings, parties, cafes, festivals and occasional concerts.
    • Teaching
    • Touring

    It’s amusing that no matter how well known you may be nationally or internationally, at home you’ll always be a “local musician” to those who assume that no outstanding professional could possibly live in their town. But local gigs can be good sources of income. There was a time when I toured several months of the year and did weddings when I was home. Before that, I busked between tours. (I lived in a tourist town, and it amazed me that I made as much selling my CDs downtown as I did on the road.)

    I found a lot of humor in the music life. Not necessarily intentional humor, but hilarious just the same. Like the lady who heard me busking, looked at my CDs and said, “How do you get to have CDs?” And the fellow who looked all around my harp for the electric cord. And the brides at outdoor weddings who mess up their $10,000 gowns with grass stains around the hem. And on, and on…  laughter keeps one sane, even if it’s not out loud.

    To successfully create and maintain either a local or a touring career, you need to be willing to:

    1. Practice daily; develop real skills and be honest with yourself about them:

    Many musicians have no idea how much work it takes to have a career, skill-wise and business-wise. Locally, you need to keep up with whoever else in your community is doing the same work. If there isn’t anyone else, you’re in luck! To get an idea about skill for touring, listen closely to the people who are nationally known in your chosen style. If you’ve got the right stuff, go for it. If not, don’t give up; keep working at it. (See my previous blogs on effective practice.)

    2. Live for your music:

    Spend your time on your music rather than on everything else. You might only get one life, so don’t waste it doing what you don’t love. Think about how you’ll feel some day on your deathbed; will you say, “I sure wish I had done what I wanted to do with my life”? No one ever says, “Gosh, I’m glad I spent so much time doing the laundry,” or “working for someone else,” or “I’m really glad I spent all my free time on Facebook.”

    And ignore the nay-sayers! Ignore them when they pat you on the head and say, “sure, sure.” If they say “You can’t do it,” you can say, “Watch me!”

    4. Create good promo materials, and do the work to promote yourself effectively

    If you’re loathe to blow your own horn, don’t worry  –  promotional materials are written in the third person. It sounds like someone else said those great things about you (and in fact you can quote nice things that others say, as testimonials). In a future blog I’ll talk about how to create a good bio/promo package and website, and how to use them.

    5. Do your own booking

    Unless you have an experienced and dedicated promoter, doing your own booking is the best way to get enough gigs to keep a career healthy. Agents are notoriously ineffective. An agent who is already good at it usually has so many clients that you’ll get lost in the shuffle. One who has no other clients probably isn’t good at it.

    In spite of the internet, we still have to do our booking the old way. You can send e-mails with links to sound bytes and websites, but the ease of this has created a flood of such e-mails to concert and festival organizers, so they usually get ignored. To stand out in the crowd, you have to send hard copy bios and CDs, and follow up relentlessly with phone calls.

    One way to get gigs is to join The Folk Alliance and apply for showcases at their conventions. I have mixed feelings about this. It’s a good way to be heard by people who run concert venues and festivals; one showcase can get you a lot of gigs. Trouble is, there aren’t enough showcase spots for everyone, so acceptance is limited to a lucky few. It used to be that each promoter made his or her own decisions based on materials sent directly to them by performers; now the Folk Alliance does that for them, so anyone who doesn’t get showcased never gets a chance; in other words, who gets the gigs is determined by one small panel of people who in essence have supreme power on a national level. I think the Folk Alliance was originally well intentioned, but IMHO they are treading the line now between being good for the folk community and being The Folk Police. It severely limits how many really good performers actually get to be heard anywhere. I prefer to bypass the organization entirely.

    6. Make a good quality CD to sell at your gigs

    Pay for performances isn’t sufficient; you need CDs. You don’t have to get hundreds at a time. Find a duplicator who will do small batches, such as CD Baby or Disc Makers. It’s more expensive that way per piece, but less expensive than paying for a huge batch that sits there forever.

    CDs are no longer viable to sell in stores. The market is too flooded. As more and more independent recordings became available, stores began to stock huge quantities of them, meaning any one title is perhaps 1/100th of their stock. You might get a check for $10 every five months. Not worth the effort.

    At your performances your CD will sell not only by the music people hear you play, but also by its cover. The saying, “Don’t judge a book by its cover” exists for a reason: because people do. Regardless of its content, a CD sells best if it has bold, bright, attractive colors and a simple, uncluttered design. One way to see how this principle works is to take a bunch of CDs with different covers and line them up, then ask your friends to point out, from a distance, which ones attract them visually. Most will choose the ones with colorful, simple covers.

    Continued next week…

     

  • What is Musical Success?

    I heard an interesting comment recently by a motivational speaker. He said, “Information is not transformation”. I wanted to cheer. It was a very concise way to express a concept I’ve always tried to make sure my students know.

    We live in the information age, and are often under the delusion that what we know about is what we know. Because of this, we take in huge volumes of information but little of it changes or enhances us. In music workshops too many students believe that being shown certain skills is the same as having practiced and integrated them. It takes focus, time and patience to actually make knowledge into skill. Only then is there the potential for musical success.

    What is musical success, anyway?  IMHO, a successful musician isn’t necessarily a professional one, and a professional musician isn’t necessarily a successful one.

    I’ve heard some amateur musicians say, “I’m satisfied with what I’ve learned and have no desire to progress farther,” and I would say that’s success, if you’re happy (and if you aren’t trying for a career). There’s nothing wrong with that. But for those who aren’t happy musically, falling short of success is, I’ve observed, often due to one of the following:

    • Thinking one can play but not putting in the time and focus it takes to actually do so. (Usually these are people with great musical potential. But you can’t ride on potential alone.)
    • Assuming that expression alone will carry the music. (Without skill there’s nothing to express.)
    • Assuming that if you’re not the best musician in the world you have no right to play expressively. (Without expression, music is just a bunch of notes.)
    • Underestimating your abilities and skills, and assuming you can’t set exciting goals for yourself.

    I’d like to share with you some random thoughts from my life as a professional.

    Was I successful? I suppose I could gauge my success on how well known I am or how big my audiences are or who my peers are or what venues I’ve played, but although I’ve been well blessed with all of that, those things have little to do with what I think of as actual success  –  those are only bragging rights.

    I think true success is gauged on the degree to which you are living your passion, no matter how that looks to or compares to others. I never had any question about what my passion was or that I would do whatever it took to live it. From the time I was about twelve years old I knew what I would be doing with the rest of my life. I worked hard to develop my skills, then worked to build and maintain a career (first in folk music and later as a harpist). It was hard work but I loved it. I retired from touring after spending a large portion of each year on the road for well over 20 years.

    Now I’m sitting under a canopy at a music camp, writing this as I listen to a dozen or more Old Time musicians playing ecstatic music on banjos, guitars, and fiddles. It’s good to get back to my roots. There’s nothing quite like this music; I’m sure it’s made a nice person out of many a crabby one. Gosh, there are some good musicians here; few of them are professional, but I’d call most of them successful. They know a thing or two, namely: there is no “arrival”; improving and learning is lifelong no matter how good you get, and there is always someone who plays or sings better than you, and that’s OK.

    It strikes me that the way to be successful musically  – whether on stage or off  –  is to share, not show. In other words, it’s not about the player but about the music. “Showing” is making it all about yourself and how good you are. “Sharing” is demonstrating how wonderful music is. It takes skill to do that, but if you put your heart and your skill together in equal measure, instead of your listeners saying, “That person is so good, I’ll never be able to do that,” they’ll say, “I love that music. I think I’ll get an instrument and try it.”

     

    Next week: The Right Stuff: Developing a Professional Career

  • Effective Practice Part 3 – More Good Practice Habits

    This is a continuation of the list of Good Practice Habits:

     Good Practice Habit #7 –  Eliminating String Noise: Many musicians ignore string noise, but correcting it can bring a piece of music to new levels of excellence. Not all stringed instruments are conducive to eliminating certain string noises, but most are.

    There are several kinds of string noise:

    a. the clicking of thick or overly long fingernails

    b. the intense buzzing that results from the back of a fingernail touching a vibrating string, or on fretted  instruments, a string not firmly against a fret.

    c. the softer buzzing that results from the flesh of a fingertip touching a vibrating string

    d. the whirr or shriek of a finger sliding along a string

    e. on fretted instruments, strings can sometimes buzz or click against frets they shouldn’t be touching.

    Let’s look at each of the above in detail:

    a. Fingernail clicking: If you use your fingernails for playing, they must be the right thickness and length to be used effectively. Otherwise they can click with every pluck. If you are not actually using them to pluck, cut them short. If you are using them to pluck, be sure they’re not too thick (as can happen with acrylic or gel nails) and that they are not too long. If you’re using your nails on nylon strings, they should be only a few millimeters longer than the end of your fingertip. This length can be determined by looking at your fingertips from the palm side of your hand to see how far they actually extend beyond the end of the finger. Also, if you have acrylic nails, they make more noise than natural nails, and can produce a very thin sound as well. It depends on your style, technique and instrument.

    b. The back of fingernail contacting a vibrating string: it takes focus and practice to keep your nails from touching the other strings.

    c. The flesh of a fingertip contacting a an already-vibrating string: if you bring the finger to the string too slowly (which is not the same as too soon). The fix is to be more decisive in the replacement movement so the vibration is stopped before it can buzz. Separating this from placing or plucking too soon can be challenging at first, but you’ll know the difference because if you place or pluck too soon you’ll cut off the ringing note or mess up your timing.

    d. Whirring and shrieking: on wound strings: sliding the fingers along the string causes a sound that might be a short squeak or a long howl. On monofilament strings, shrieking and whirring can happen when the weather is humid or smoggy or when the strings are dirty.

    It’s nearly impossible to keep from making a whirring noise when you slide your fingers up the wound strings of a guitar or a harp (which is one of the reasons many electric guitarists use flat-wound strings), and you can hear that effect in recordings of even the best classical guitarists. It can be minimized, so one wouldn’t want to just fall prey to the idea that it’s pointless to try.

    Harpists, on the other hand, really shouldn’t slide their fingers along the strings, even a little. There’s a tendency to place the fingers high and then slide down into position, which makes the hands look a bit like fluttering wings; even if it looks pretty, it’s just a bad habit. Please see Techniques for Expressive Playing and The Harper’s Manual, available on my website, for ways to correct this.

    Cleaning your strings:

    • Metal strings do well with the softest grade of steel wool (NOT the kind used for scrubbing pans), which does not damage the strings; fold a very small piece of steel wool gently between finger and thumb and GENTLY pinch the string. Slide up and down a few times until the string looks new and shiny. If the steel wool is fine enough, the string will feel very smooth. You can get this grade of steel wool at a hardware or woodworking store.
    • For nylon strings, use Dawn dishwashing liquid (yes, the brand makes a big difference!) – just a drop – on a soft damp cloth; fold the cloth between thumb and finger, and pinch the string gently. Run it up and down the string a few times. The string will shriek like a banshee, so you might need ear plugs. Then be sure to repeat the process with a cloth dampened in plain water, to rid the string of soap. Don’t let any drips run down the strings into the string grommet, and keep the soundboard dry.

    e. For fretted instruments, vibration against frets occurs in three situations:

    • …when you don’t press the string firmly enough. But it’s really more often the next item that is really the problem: 
    • …when you don’t press the string in the right part of the fret. The string should be pressed just to the left of the fret, not in the middle of the space between frets. 
    • …when the bridge of the instrument is too low (have a technician look at it)
    • …when the neck is warped. You might be able to determine this by holding the lowest string down at the first and the highest fret at the same time and, looking from the side, see if the space between the string and the neck changes anywhere along its length.  Then get a professional opinion.

    Good Practice Habit #8 – Correcting staccato, choppy playing

    The first challenge when your music doesn’t flow is to notice that it doesn’t! There are two common reasons:

    a. Placing fingers too soon on strings that are still ringing: this can happen on any stringed instrument, and is especially common among harpists. Of course, just swiping at the strings doesn’t work either; there is a happy medium, but it takes focus and practice.

    b. On fretted instruments, lifting fingers off the fretboard too soon causes notes to stop before they should, and is very common among beginning and intermediate players  –  but I’ve heard it happen even in graduate recitals of classical guitarists. Each note should transition smoothly to the next note, so leave the finger on the string for as long as possible before you go to the next placement.

     

  • Effective Practice, Part 2

    This is a continuation of last week’s blog.

    Good Habit #6: Purposely Overcoming Trouble Spots

    “Trouble spots” are where something always goes wrong in the same part of the tune. Many musicians ignore trouble spots, thinking they’ll just go away eventually (sort of like avoiding going to the dentist for tooth pain). Usually they just get worse. The best way to handle them is to purposely do what it takes to correct them. Let’s look at some of the specific trouble spots you might encounter in your practice:

    1. Tempo or Rhythm is Not Even: Smooth rhythms and even tempos usually come with practice, but if you’ve put in the time and still haven’t achieved good results, here are some things to consider:

    a. You might not believe this, but a metronome is your friend. If you hate metronomes, it’s probably because you haven’t been instructed in their true benefits and how to use them well. A metronome does not have to make your music sound stilted. In fact, they help achieve a smooth and flowing sound  –  when used well.

    Since it isn’t easy to keep a steady tempo or play a perfect rhythm while concentrating at the same time on learning other aspects of playing, the metronome frees us to think about those other things (such as playing the right notes!) while providing the beat for us. Using a metronome will entrain the beat into your playing so it becomes automatic and habitual.

    Hint: don’t flap your elbows or bob your head in time with the metronome. That’s counterproductive. Keep your movements smooth and natural.

    If you’re an experienced player, you may find that some pieces you play well tend to get sloppy over time. When that happens, using the metronome during practice will clean those pieces up quickly. (I always use one when preparing for concerts, because as far as I’m concerned, just “good enough” isn’t good enough.)

    A metronome can be set to any tempo. No matter the desired tempo for the piece, it’s best to start with a slow beat and get that perfected, then work up by steps to the desired tempo; this can take several weeks or more. Don’t shortcut to a faster tempo.

    The most common complaint I hear is, “my metronome slows down and speeds up”. No  –  that’s YOU. Yes, it happens everyone. That’s what a metronome fixes!

    By the way, be sure to get a metronome that clicks rather than beeps. A click is more audible. I like mechanical metronomes; they’re less expensive, louder, and easier to use.   

    b. You may not be counting your note values accurately or consistently. There can be any number of reasons for this, but amazingly, the most common is a lack of complete understanding of time signature. In teaching experienced musicians, when I’ve asked them to define the meaning of a specific time signature, a majority can’t tell me! I’ve even encountered musicians who thought it was a tempo setting! If you don’t understand fully how to define a time signature and/or how to count each one confidently, it’s simply not possible to have any command of timing or to make a melody make sense. (If you’d like a Skype lesson on time signatures and counting, contact me at laurie.riley689@gmail.com )

    c. On the other hand, you may be concentrating too hard on your counting (the opposite from the above situation). Once you’ve learned a piece well, you can stop counting. If you don’t, your music is likely to lack expression. The count and the rhythm must be consistent but should become automatic.

    2. Tripping Fingers

    Most stringed instrument players are familiar with the feeling of having their fingers trip over each other. Although this is normal when you’re new to your instrument, it can happen to anyone at any skill level but, hopefully, less often as the years go by. There are two main reasons for tripping fingers: poor planning of finger placements and movements, and poor planning of eye movement. Let’s consider the fingers first:

    What exactly is fingering? It’s what order your fingers are used in, when they are placed and/or when they pluck. Planning precisely how your fingers will execute every passage of a piece of music is essential for the sake of accuracy, confidence and finesse (improvisation is another matter). Using the exact same fingering every time you play the piece assures kinesthetic memory. When there’s a trouble spot, either you haven’t planned your fingering, or you have but it needs correction. Rather than just letting those trouble spots go by, check the fingering and re-work it if needed.

    Planning your eye movements may seem like overkill, but in fact it makes a huge difference. An obvious example of good use of the eyes is when you have a jump of several strings (harp), keys (piano) or frets (guitar, banjo, mando, etc.) coming up; if you look at where you are going next, instead of where you are now, you can much more easily get there. Watching your fingers do their work is usually not productive unless you’re a beginner. Looking where they will go next is a much better use of your eyes.

    3. Hesitations

    Hesitations are usually the result of not being sure where you’re going next. Taking that extra moment, no matter how bried, to place a chord or start a passage detracts greatly from the music. Once you know a piece well, if you’re still hesitating in certain places, it’s probably an eye-movement problem. Read the last paragraph of #2, above.

    4. Forgetting

    Forgetting where you are in a piece, or what the next note, chord, lyric or phrase is, is a problem that aging folks such as myself are becoming more and more familiar with. I sometimes decide to forego dignity and use simple reminder notes that I place on the floor or attach to my instrument (I don’t use a music stand, as it blocks visual and psychological access to my audience, and I don’t use notation for the same reason).

    But usually forgetting is due to not having a solid concept of pattern, rather than old age. In most music there are patterns that are visual, audible, and kinesthetic. If we ignore any of those ways of remembering our music, we handicap ourselves. Developing patterns of eye movement was discussed above. Remembering music’s audible patterns is a simple matter of hearing it in your head (NOT of seeing notation your head!), knowing it well enough that you can hum it to yourself, and knowing how the phrases are “shaped”. Remembering kinesthetic patterns is a matter of consistent fingering (discussed above) and/or arm movements that are practiced until they’re set in muscle memory.

    Next week: more potential trouble spots and how to overcome them

  • Effective Practice

    Good Practice Habit #1: Focus

    We’ve all heard the term “getting in the zone”, and we all have a different idea of what that means, but we know it refers to being in a state of mind that allows us to accomplish a task at hand. I’ll call it “focus”. Focus is a quiet state of mind; it isn’t desperate trying, or forcing, or endless repetition. It’s merely being totally present, without interference from other thoughts or any nagging ideas that you should be doing something else. In a larger sense, focus is also accepting where you’re at musically, and working within that realistic frame. (If you constantly try to play above your skill level, you can’t make the progress you’ll make if you work within your skill level, thereby letting your skill level progress naturally.) 

    Focus keeps all the little distractions, imaginary judges, and the gremlins I call “Shoulds” from having any negative influence. And being calmly focused brings better results than all the forcing and agonizing in the world.

    If you have trouble relaxing enough to focus, learn a sport that requires “getting in the zone”, or if you go to a gym, close your eyes when you’re on the treadmill instead of directing your attention outward to a TV or book. Or take a meditation class. You’ll be amazed at what a difference these can make in learning how to focus when you’re practicing music.

    Good Habit #2: Relax

    In addition to focusing – which relaxes the mind –  musicians also need to relax the body, arms and hands. Playing a musical instrument does not involve strength or force; it’s not a wrestling match. If your body or your technique is tense, you’ll never be able to play smoothly, rhythmically, or equally well at any tempo.

    A tense technique is often the culprit in unsuccessful musicianship; putting too much effort into movement causes loss of dexterity. Some people have tense technique because they’ve been taught poorly; others because they subconsciously assume that playing requires great effort and tension. (Don’t be fooled by performing instrumentalists who try to make it look like it’s a grueling physical workout. That’s just showmanship.) On the other hand, relaxing doesn’t mean the hands and arms should be floppy or their position or movements devoid of technique; it means that one relaxes within the position and movements that are essential to your technique. 

    When learning a new technique on any instrument, tension needs to be addressed as the hands and body become accustomed to the movements. If tension remains and becomes habitual, it can be challenging to overcome it later. I recall a harp student who always approached her harp by drawing in and holding her breath and assuming a posture and expression reminiscent of a fierce eagle staring at its prey from above. It turned out the first harpist she’d ever seen (on TV years before) had approached her harp that way. It had given her the subconscious impression that it was necessary, when in fact it was merely an affectation and her copying it prevented her from being able to play. 

    Upon seeing a skilled professional musician play, we often say, “They make it look so easy!” Those who make it look easy are those with a relaxed technique. If you don’t know whether your body and/or hands are tense or not, ask a professional musician (who knows your instrument) to observe you. (If you’d like a session on Skype, please contact me at laurie.riley689@gmail.com).

    Good Habit #3: Retaining Your Passion

    If you’re playing an instrument, hopefully you’re doing it because you have a passion for music. That may seem like an overly obvious statement, but it’s really at the heart of why we practice at all. If you love it, you can’t stay away from your instrument. If you don’t love it, you probably won’t want to practice. Unfortunately, many musicians, somewhere along the line, forget they’re playing for the love of music, and fall into making it a required drudgery. There can be a number of reasons for this lapse of passion.

    1. Are you playing the right instrument? If you have trouble “disciplining yourself” to practice, maybe you should ask yourself if you’re in love with your instrument or not. Some folks assume that if their current instrument isn’t thrilling them, no instrument will. Not so! Keep looking!
    2. Many of us who want to be practicing our instruments are doing everything else first and practicing last, as though it were a reward for being good. But if instead you practice when you want to, the other stuff will get done; playing music first will energize you for it.
    3. There are all kinds of subconscious issues around music playing. For instance, a friend of mine who wanted to learn his beloved new instrument wasn’t allowing himself to practice. After some thought, he realized he was repeating a learned childhood pattern  –  as a young boy he had asked his parents for music lessons and was told that in order to practice he would have to forego playing outdoors with his friends after school every day. As an adult he still subconsciously assumed he would have to give up something in order to play music. Recognizing such things can help us get past the problem of practice-reluctance.

    Good Habit #4: Playing Music You Enjoy

    Not only do you need to be playing an instrument you really enjoy, but each tune or song you learn should be one you like. If music is for enjoyment, why play tunes you don’t like? If you aren’t really moved by the music you’re playing, it’s sure to discourage you from practicing.

    One of the reasons some folks don’t take lessons is because they’re afraid they’ll be required to learn music they don’t relate to. I have to agree that some beginner books make me feel stupid. “Froggy Went A-Courtin’” was insulting when we were toddlers, let alone as adult students. I’ve never understood why so many publishers of beginner books think simple tunes have to be inane. On the other hand, many a new student arrives at their first lesson armed with books of advanced music, or asking to play advanced tunes by ear, that are impossible for a beginner to learn. If you’re a beginner you can have a conversation with your teacher about learning tunes that are meant for intelligent brains but suitable for beginners.

    If, after much practice, you get tired of playing a piece you used to enjoy, play it less often for a while. It will probably freshen up on the shelf in time.

    Good Habit #5: Using Time Efficiently

    How long you practice in a day doesn’t matter. I’ve met some students who wouldn’t practice when they had just a few free minutes – ten or fifteen minutes – because “it wasn’t long enough.” Not true! Three fifteen-minute practice periods are as good as one forty-five-minute session. Three ten-minute sessions are as good as one half-hour session. The brain needs the breaks between practices to “file” the information into memory anyway; if you practice without breaks, you can’t learn as much as if you practice in shorter sessions that add up to the same number of hours. It’s just a neurologic fact.

    Be aware that skill on one instrument doesn’t translate to skill on another, nor does the ability to read music automatically mean you can play any instrument, even the ones that are closely related to your original instrument. Guitarists, for instance, cannot automatically play banjos; pianists cannot automatically play harps, pennywhistle players cannot automatically play flutes, and so on. If you get a new instrument, get guided instruction on the technique for that specific instrument.

    …More Good Practice Habits next week!

  • More on Modes

    To get the most from this article, please see my first post on Modes  (“Demystifying Modes”, published on this site on 5/30/2012),  in which I presented the basic concepts of modes in an easy-to-understand format.

    When a folk or traditional musician sits down with a group to play a tune, the usual question is, “What key is it in?” When someone asks this question, we sometimes find, upon starting to play, that it’s really not in the stated key; it may have a minor chord where a major would be, or a flat where a natural should be. This isn’t a trick on the newcomer; usually the person who told you doesn’t know their modes.

    Just because a tune uses a certain chord as its tonic doesn’t mean that’s the key. You might, for instance, begin and end on an A chord, when the actual key is G (that would be Dorian mode.) For those playing instruments with chromatic capability, this is not a big deal. That’s probably why many folks don’t realize that if there’s an anomaly (other than an occasional accidental) in the scale, it’s not a straight major or minor scale.

    For someone with a non-chromatic instrument, it can be more challenging when someone tells you they’re in a certain key that turns out to actually be a mode instead. A harpist may end up wildly flipping levers in the middle of a tune, or a pennywhistle player might have to switch whistles, and so on. Of course they discover the problem only after they’ve played a chord or note that should have been in the key they were given but which has turned out to be wrong. This makes the hapless victim look like a dunce.

    If using notation, the best way to determine the actual mode is to look at the ending melody note. If, for instance, the key signature indicates key of C and the ending note is C, then you’re in the key of C; but if you’re in the key of C but the ending note is D (the 2 note of the key of C) you’re in Dorian mode. If it’s G (the 5 note of the key of C), you’re in Mixolydian. And so on. (If the previous sentence made your brain freeze, my first article on modes explains how to easily determine each mode and how the modes can be played in any key.)

    Just for fun, let’s diverge a bit for a moment. Two common questions about modes are, “What do their names mean?” and “Where did they come from?” Ask any five people these questions and you’ll get five different answers; it seems there is no consensus. My friend Lorna Govier, a wonderful harpist and teacher living in Tucson, sent me some fascinating information to share with you:

    Modes have been defined and redefined many times throughout history in a rather convoluted way. This is one of the reasons the subject can be so confusing. The original mode names refer to Greek scales (not modes) which sound quite odd. Some of these names refer to the group of people who supposedly used them (i.e. “Phrygians” and “Lydians”); however, such assignments were probably wild guesses. There were also eight church modes (called “Gregorian modes”), which used the old Greek scale names but sounded quite different. And in 1547, Swiss theorist Henricus Glareanus added four more modes to make twelve. To make matters more confusing, the mode names were switched in the late 18th and 19th centuries, and it was decided to go back to only eight modes. But that didn’t stick either; now the modern system employs seven modes with Greek names that are different (again!) from the Gregorian modes. Interestingly, Akkadian texts (which predate Greek texts) define seven modes which are the same as the modern modes, but not with Greek names. And to confuse the matter a bit more, since the end of the eighteenth century, the term “mode” has also been applied to some non-European musical scales.

    When I Googled “Ancient Greek Modes”, everything I found was about the modes that are, given the above information, actually the modern ones, so apparently most folks are under the impression that the modern modes are ancient and Greek. (“Ancient” and “modern” may be relative terms, as we’ve been using these modes since the Middle Ages. But that’s more modern than ancient Greek culture.) But their designation as Greek is at least partially erroneous; even though they’ve been given Greek names, some of these modes were commonly used in Europe, and still are; that’s why I used Dorian and Mixolydian as examples above  –  they are very common, for instance, in Celtic music.

    So… back to the seven “modern” modes I’d been discussing:

    Each mode has a characteristic harmonic structure that gives it a distinctive sound. In my first article on modes I offered the easiest and most obvious way to understand them. For the left-brained among us, there are many ways of describing them, some more complex than others, though they all say the same thing in the end. Here’s a quote from Wikipedia: “The Ionian mode is the only mode whose dominant seventh chord type occurs naturally on the fifth scale degree, as V7…”

    No wonder so many folks run screaming when they hear the word “modes”. But for those who do want a little more detail as a next step from my first article, here’s a good way to understand what gives each mode its characteristic sound:

    First, there are four basic principles you have to know:

    1. The Do-Re-Mi scale consists of half steps and whole steps as follows: whole, whole, half, whole, whole, whole, half (1,1, ½, 1,1,1, ½.)  (Why, you might ask, is a scale not all whole steps? For now, suffice it to say that it would sound really weird if it were. In the future I’ll do an article on that. Right now, for the sake of staying on subject, just take my word for it.)

    2. There are no sharps or flats in any of the seven modes when you’re in the Key of C, and when in other keys, no sharps or flats are added to the existing ones to create any mode. All the modes contain only the notes in the diatonic scale  –  no more and no less.

    3. Each mode simply starts in a different position.

    4. When you start a scale on a note other than the tonic (note 1) of the key, the positions of the half steps are automatically shifted because you’ve started on a note other than 1.

    Now let’s look at each mode:

    The Ionian or “1” mode is the normal scale that we call “diatonic” or “major”. It goes from the tonic (1) note (of any key) up seven successive notes plus one more to its octave, or, to put it very simply, from 1 to 8 (in the key of C it is: C,D,E,F,G,A,B,C). As described in the previous paragraph, the half steps in this scale are between notes 3 and 4 and between notes 7 and 8.  Therefore the positions of whole steps and half steps in Ionian are: 1,1, ½, 1,1,1, ½

    The Dorian, or “2” mode goes from the second note (2) up to its octave (from 2 to 2). Therefore, the half steps are automatically shifted down one position, thusly: whole, half, whole, whole, whole, half, whole (1, ½, 1,1,1, ½, 1).

    The Phrygian, or “3” mode, starts one note higher than the Dorian, going from the third note (3) up to its octave, or from 3 to 3. Therefore, the half steps automatically shift down one more position, thusly: ½, 1,1,1, ½, 1, 1.

    …and so on with each mode:

    Lydian (4 mode):  1,1,1, ½, 1, 1, ½

    Mixolydian  (5 mode):  1,1, ½, 1, 1, ½, 1

    Aeolean ( 6 mode):  1, ½, 1, 1, ½, 1,1

    Locrian  (7 mode):  ½, 1, 1, ½, 1,1,1

    I suppose the big question is, “So what?” For those who are simply playing tunes learned because we like them, whether by ear of from notation, you may never be affected by the fact that some of the tunes are in one mode or another. You can just play them without ever having to think about that. But for those who compose music, understanding modes can help you in creating specific moods in your music. And for those studying with a therapeutic music training program, understanding modes may be part of your training, as each mode’s characteristic “feel” can affect listeners’ emotions (and, some say, their physical state as well), so knowing how to use modes is considered important. And for all of us, understanding why a piece sounds as it does (“Oh, it’s eerie because it’s in Locrian mode!”) is just plain interesting.

    One more thing to know: if you hear someone say “D Dorian”, it means Dorian starting from D, not Dorian in the key of D.  D Dorian is in the key of C; it starts on the 2 note (D) of the C scale. Likewise, D Mixolydian would start on the D (5) note of the G scale. The best way to figure what key a mode is in when someone says something like, “We’re in D Mixolydian”, is to know your mode numbers. For instance, Mixolydian is the 5 mode. So if someone says “D Mixolydian”, count down five notes from and including D – that would be D, C, B, A, G – and you arrive on G, which is the key.

    By the way, some will argue that a mode is not a scale. Any grouping of successive notes can be called a scale (for example, a “pentatonic scale” is only five notes, but it’s still a scale). Wikipedia says a scale is “a series of notes differing in pitch according to a specific scheme…” I would add that the notes are in an ascending order (a scale doesn’t change directions).

    If all this has made your eyes glaze over, don’t worry about it. What I wrote in my first article on modes will get you started.

    Don’t think you can’t play music if you’re not up on your modes. Knowing your modes and other theory makes us better musicians, but we all have a right to play for fun and entertainment.

    Next week: Practicing Effectively

  • More About Hands: Technique Issues

    (To get the most from this post, please also read last week’s post.)

    For those who play an acoustic stringed instrument, the term “technique” refers to the way we use our hands to play. Good technique produces the melding of four elements:

    1. optimal relaxation of the hands through good ergonomics of the hands and arms
    2. optimal tone
    3. optimal accuracy
    4. optimal smoothness, speed, and expression

    For each type of instrument, there is no single technique that works for everyone, because each person’s hands are different. Your fingers may be longer or shorter than average; your thumb may be a different length than someone else’s, and the thumbnail may oriented at a different angle to the hand. The palm of your hand may be narrow or wide. Your knuckles might collapse, bend both ways, or whatever. Individual differences are endless. Strangely, these differences often aren’t considered.

    If someone has had to work hard on their technique, they’ll have an investment in its being the “only right one”. There would be many more excellent musicians in the world if more teachers individualized technique for each student’s needs. That said, there are students who don’t learn what they’re taught. The relationship between student and teacher is not 50-50; it’s 100-100. Both have to give it 100% in order for learning to be successful.

    Individualizing technique doesn’t mean re-inventing a new method for each student; it simply means being well versed in all the accepted methods and being able to identify which one is best suited, and then tweaking it if necessary.

    Some folk musicians are self-taught and have no technical training. Some get pretty good at what they do, but think of this: if they had technical training as well, they’d be even better. Why not be the best you can be?

    When you seek a teacher, check out their reputation. Beware of the minimally qualified; lack of technique will limit your skill development, and once you form poor habits, it’s hard to break them. On the other hand, you can learn from more than one teacher; each will have something of value to offer. Learning more than one technique will not ruin what you already know. (If you had a vocabulary of 1000 words, would learning another 1000 words make you forget the first 1000? Of course not.)

    Let’s look at the three elements I listed in the first paragraph:

    1. Ergonomics of the hands and arms can be described as having two elements:
    2. Most new hand positions and motions don’t feel natural at first, but should become comfortable after a few weeks. There should be no tension in the hands, and no discomfort. Relaxed playing produces smoothness and flow in the music.
    3. When you’ve learned to relax the hands and have comfortable ergonomic hand position and movements, you’ll automatically begin to develop kinesthetics (memorizing the feeling of distances and intervals of placements of note groupings, phrases and chords, and developing muscle memory). This allows you to play without having to think consciously about every note. (We can’t rely on the conscious mind to stay on top of every note we play; we must have muscle memory. Without it, music sounds choppy and halting.)

     

    2. Tone also has two elements:

    a. quality of sound and volume.

    b. dynamic expression (loud and soft). Consider how much you paid for your instrument. If you have, say, a $2000 instrument, and you are only getting a $200 sound out of it, you need to learn a better technique.

     

    3. Accuracy has three elements:

    a. Minimal mistakes (If, no matter how much you practice, you still make too many mistakes, the good news is that you are not inept, only that your technique needs help.)

    b. Clarity  – every note is audible (without skips, flubs or plunks); what’s in your head actually comes out your fingers.

    c. Your eyes are free so you don’t have to watch your fingers play, and can therefore rely on kinesthetics.

     

    4. Smoothness, speed and expression are outgrowths of all of the above factors.

     

    (Sorry about the formatting above; WordPress has a mind of its own.)

    Because technique should be individualized, how will you know if the technique you’ve been taught is a good one for you? The answer lies in results. Give a good, honest try to the technique you’re taught, without resisting or changing what you’re asked to do. If after a few months you are not progressing, then it’s not the best technique for you. It’s more likely, though, that you’ll find your playing has improved. One good way to measure your progress is to record yourself playing before you start learning the new technique, and then again after two months of focused practice, and compare the new recording with the old. You may be amazed!

    I like to encourage all musicians to keep learning, even after you think you’ve “arrived”. People often ask me how long it will take to learn to play a certain instrument. The truth is, it may take only a few months to learn the basics, but after that, progress is life-long.  The best musicians know there is no end to progress; no matter how good you get, there’s always further to go, and that’s why playing an instrument is so fulfilling.

     

    Next week: More about Modes

     

  • All About Hands (part 4 of the Discomfort and injury series)

    To get the most out of the following information, reading the three previous posts will give you the background information on this subject.

    The information here is not a substitute for medical diagnosis and treatment.

    ***

     Musicans’ hand discomfort or injury most often develops from holding the hands stiffly or awkwardly while plucking or pressing the strings or keys of an instrument. This can affect the muscles, tendons, tendon sheaths, joints, nerves and nerve sheaths of your hands, fingers and wrists.

     Although these are often referred to as “repetitive motion injuries”, repetitive motion alone isn’t necessarily a problem, but repetitive motion under stress causes many injuries. “Stress” means any stiffness or tension of the muscles being used.

    Many people think their hands are not agile when in fact they are just using them badly. You may not necessarily be aware when your hand is tense or your position is awkward. If you can’t feel it, you can probably hear it; tension in the hand makes the music sound tense and choppy.

    To feel the difference between relaxed repetitive motion and stressed repetitive motion, try this experiment:

    1. Away from your instrument, hold your hand parallel to the floor, palm down.

    2. Let your fingers relax completely.

    3. In this relaxed position, wiggle your fingers. This should feel very easy.

    4. Next, bend the wrist so the hand is up as though you were stopping traffic, and wiggle the fingers again. Notice how they move reluctantly at best. One cannot expect to play well with the wrist bent in that direction.

    5. Now, splay the fingers (fan them out as far as you can) and wiggle the fingers again. Stiff, eh?

    Splaying the fingers or bending the wrist (in the direction described) requires significant flexion of muscles and related tendons, and this can potentially cause injury when in combination with the repetitive motion required to play an instrument. (There are also other ways one might tense the hand muscles, such as clenching the fist, but the above are mentioned because they are the most common for musicians.)

    When we move our fingers, the tendons and muscles responsible are not just in the fingers. Finger movement is governed by tendons that begin at the fin­gers but extend through the hand and wrist, and attach to corresponding muscles in the forearm; therefore, finger movement actually orig­inates in the forearm. There is one muscle for each finger on the outer side of the forearm, and another on the inside of the forearm. The ones on the outer side are responsible for upward finger movement and for opening the fingers, while the muscles on the inside of the forearm are responsible for inward finger movement and closing the fingers. Therefore we have to be careful with our arms as well as our hands. (See the arm illustration in my post of 6/27.)

    By the way, wrist bones (carpals) have small spaces between them that close when you bend the wrist back. But when you straighten the wrist, those bones are more separated. Playing with a straight wrist creates less friction between the carpal bones.

    Now try this:

    1. Hold your arm out with the wrist straight and the palm facing the floor. Let the fingers curl natu­rally. Now lift the curled index finger. Note how the associated ten­don becomes prominent on the back of your hand. (Every time you lift a finger, you tense a tendon).
    2. Move the curled index finger into the palm of the hand. Notice how little the tendon moves by comparison. Into the palm is a relaxed plucking motion. Yet many string musicians pluck by lifting the fingers instead, which is awkward and tense.

    Be aware of what you do with your hands in your everyday activities, too. If you use tools or work with your hands in any way, be careful about repetitive motion under stress. Typists, for instance, have a high rate of Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. Carpenters and gardeners are prone to tendonitis. If you talk on the phone for more than about 30 minutes a day, holding the phone to your ear can eventually injure the hand or wrist. (No kidding. Your neck can develop problems, too. Get a headset for your phone, or use the speaker function, to free your hands.)

    Another factor in keeping your hands and wrists healthy: how do you hold your hands when they are not in use? Do you drum your fingers on tables or other surfaces, do you fidget, or do you clench your fists? Those subconscious habits can be noticed and changed.

    What are the specific causes and symptoms of each of the common repetitive-motion-under-stress-injuries: Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, Tendonitis, Focal Dystonia and Tenosynovitis?

    Carpal Tunnel Syndrome is a term that has been over-used and over-diagnosed. It’s a common injury, but be aware that there are other injuries that can produce similar symptoms, and which need to be treated differently.

    Carpal Tunnel Syndrome occurs when the median nerve is entrapped where it goes through the wrist area, by inflammation (swelling) of its sheath or by a buildup of mucopolysaccharides (fatty deposits which can occur even if you’re not overweight) inside the sheath. One of the symptoms of carpal tunnel syndrome is sharp pain that shoots up the arm, which is often worse at night.

    Tendonitis is an inflamed tendon. It can be exacerbated by excess mu­copolysaccharides in the lubricating fluid (synovial fluid) around the tendon. Its symptoms include pain when the tendon is used, and sometimes swelling and/or redness in the affected area.

    Tenosynovitis in musicians usually manifests as stiffness of one or more fingers and inability to open the finger once you’ve closed it. This is due to inflammation within the tendon sheath that prevents the tendon from moving smoothly (or at all). There may also be a popping sound when you flex your fingers.

    Focal Dystonia is a mysterious condition that manifests much like tenosynovitis, but often without pain. One or more fingers may clench and not open. It is more often found in professional musicians who play for many hours a day over several years. Research has hinted that it’s a neurologic problem rather than an injury per se, but it isn’t yet fully known why the message from brain to finger gets scrambled. For the musician, this is especially strange considering that they’ve so carefully trained their brain-to-muscle impulses to be accurate and reliable, and in fact they were perfectly fine for many years of playing.

    Thoracic Outlet Syndrome (TOS) is a condition that may arise due to overdevelopment of the muscles in the area behind the clavicle (collarbone) where major arteries and veins vie for space with muscles, tendons, the spinal column, the first rib, and the clavicle itself. Some people, maybe one in a hundred, actually have an extra rib (called a “cervical rib”) which makes this space even smaller. When a muscle becomes too large and hard from overuse, it can press a vein or artery against a bone or another muscle, causing impaired circulation. Nerves can be pinched as well. In the most extreme cases, the hands become swollen and blue or black. In less extreme cases, the hands and arms simply ache or tingle and swell slightly; this is often mistaken for arthritis. This syndrome is often caused by habitually holding the arms too high, so it’s common for harpists, violinists, floutists, and carpenters.

    Here’s a test for Thoracic Outlet Syndrome: hold your arms out straight from your sides. Now bend them up at the elbows as though you were in a holdup (“Come out with your hands up!”). With the palms facing forward, slowly and smoothly open and close the fingers for three minutes. If within that time you cannot hold your arms up anymore, or if your hands hurt or cease to function, you may wish to see an occupational therapist, and you may need change the activity that overdeveloped the muscles.

    To avoid the above conditions, learn a relaxed technique, don’t practice your music more than about two hours a day, and don’t play when your hands are cold. Warm them up under warm water first if necessary. Always avoid playing when your hands hurt.

    More Sources of Pain:

    Pain in the hand, wrist or arm may also be caused by chronically tight muscles in the neck, shoulders, or back, which can impinge on nerves that lead to the hand. This is called “referred pain”, but nerves that are affected this way also may not send the right messages to the hand (you might try to move a finger one way and it goes another, or it doesn’t respond right away).

    Chronically tight muscles in the neck and back can also pull the vertebrae out of alignment, causing nerve entrapment (all nerves originate and emanate from the spinal column, spreading to the rest of the body like branches on a tree).

    A good chiropractor, massage therapist, and/or accupressurist can help, and stress-reduction techniques such as yoga, meditation and biofeedback may eliminate the underlying causes. Don’t assume surgery is the answer for chronic pain unless all possible causes and other treatments have been addressed first. When surgery is suggested, be sure to get a second opinion, and maybe a third!

    Referred pain and/or tingling in hands may also result from spondylosis in the neck  –  bone spurs on the vertebrae that compromise nerve function. This arthritic condition does sometimes require corrective surgery.

    You may be advised by a physical therapist to wear a brace on your hand or wrist if you have pain do­ing normal everyday activities. If a brace makes your fingers swollen, tingly, or numb, get it properly refitted im­mediately.

    A Checklist for Hands:

    To reiterate, problems with hands/wrists/arms can be caused by:

    • Tense hands
    • Poor hand position/technique for YOUR hand size and shape
    • Stretching thumb forward while playing (see previous post)
    • Plucking or pressing too hard
    • “Flying pinkie” (see previous post)
    • Hand bent outward at wrist (inward is usually OK)
    • Referred pain from poor ergonomics (see previous three posts)

    Next week: more about hands!